Surface Gravity Waves and Nearshore Circulation


T. H. C. Herbers, Steve Elgar, R. T. Guza, and W. C. O'Reilly

Funding Sources

Office of Naval Research, Coastal Dynamics Program

National Science Foundation, Coastal Ocean Processes Program


Our DUCK94 field experiments are focused on surface waves and currents both in the nearshore and on the shelf. Specific science objectives include:

Portions of the above work are collaborative and/or in support of the research of Thornton, Jensen, Lippmann, the CoOP Group (Butman, Largier, Lentz, Madsen, Shanks, Wright), and others.

An additional objective of the DUCK94 experiment was to test new field instrumentation and data acquisition systems to be used in SandyDuck, and to obtain observations which will guide the SandyDuck array design. As part of the SandyDuck experiment, in collaboration with other investigators, we plan to deploy an extensive array of near-bottom instruments to measure waves, currents, and ground water and set-up levels. This suite of measurements will be used to test wave propagation and circulation models, and to provide environmental hydrodynamic observations for morphology studies.


Approach and Results

Descriptions of the approach and results for portions of the experiment concerning the continental shelf and the surf zone (respectively) are given below in the sections entitled "Surface Wave Processes on the Continental Shelf and Beach" and "Nearshore Fluid Mechanics" .

For a list of addresses of the investigators involved in Duck 94 click here.