Foreshore Dynamics


Rob Holman, Todd Holland, Nathaniel Plant

Funding Source

Office of Naval Research, Coastal Dynamics Program (principally)


Our objectives are to understand to a predictive level the dynamics of spectral swash on a sloping surface, including full frequency-longshore wavenumber characterization. We also wish to characterize the foreshore sediment response on time scales from minutes to weeks (and longer, in general) and longshore length scales from 1 to 100 m (and longer, in general).

We also wish to improve our understanding of the exact nature of video intensity signals through a range of ground-truthed studies such that we can apply these various video-based techniques to the study of a range of nearshore problems.


Foreshore studies will be video-based, using both single-camera runup measurements and newly-developed stereo techniques for foreshore response measurements. Studies will be passive ( in contrast to the active disturbance of Dozer Duck). Collaboration may develop with Werner and Elgar.

Video intensity studies will compare video intensity signals with several in-situ data sources, focusing on development of a model for the relationship of intensity to fluid processes that is applicable over a range of frequency bands. Collaboration will be with Lippmann and Thornton, and possibly others.



For a list of addresses of the investigators involved in Duck 94 click here.