Field Research Facility
Coastal & Hydraulics Laboratory

FRF Publications Page last updated 18JUL2000

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KEYWORDS

KEYWORDS

 

ACOUSTICS AND ACOUSTIC METHODS

 

Beavers, R., P. Howd, W. Birkemeier, and K. Hathaway, Evaluating profile data and depth of closure with sonar altimetry, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, NY, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 1, pp. 479-490, 1999.

Fabre, J.P., Estimation of noise source level densities due to high surf off the Coast of Duck, NC, Masters thesis, University of New Orleans, New Orleans, 77 p., 1996.

Fabre, J.P., and J.H. Wilson, Noise source level density due to surf .2 Duck, NC, IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, 22 (3), 434-444, 1997.

Gallagher, E.L., W. Boyd, S. Elgar, R.T. Guza, and B. Woodward, Performance of a sonar altimeter in the nearshore, Marine Geology, 133 (3-4), 241-248, 1996.

Jetté, C.D., and D.M. Hanes, High resolution sea-bed imaging:  an acoustic multiple transducer array, Measurement Science and Technology, 8, 787-792, 1997.

Kohanowich, K.M., Calibration of a Coherent Acoustic Sediment Profiler (CASP) and analysis of sediment distribution from DUCK94, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 105 p., 1995.

Lee, T.H., and D.M. Hanes, Measurement of suspended sediment in nearshore zone: an explicit solution to the acoustic backscatter inversion problem, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O32A-15], 74 (43 Suppl.), pp. 348, 1993.

Lee, T.H., and D.M. Hanes, Direct inversion method to measure the concentration profile of suspended particles using backscattered sound, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C2), 2649-2657, 1995.

Paquin-Fabre, J., and J.H. Wilson, Preliminary characterization and modelling of ambient noise due to high surf during DUCK94, Journal of the Acoustical Society of America,, 99 (4), pp. 2454, 1996.

Stanton, T.P., K. Kanhanovich, and E.B. Thornton, Acoustic Doppler measurements of sediment fluxes at Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-04], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 335, 1994.

Thosteson, E.D., and D.M. Hanes, A simplified method for determining sediment size and concentration from multiple frequency acoustic backscatter measurements, Journal Acoustic Society of America, 104 (2), 820-830, 1998.

Vincent, C.E., and K. Black, Fine-scale resuspension processes by waves over flat and rippled beds: field observations, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS21C-30], 79 (45), pp. 452, 1998.

BAR SYSTEMS

Birkemeier, W.A., P.A. Howd, and R.J. Savage, The development and stabilization of a nearshore bar system, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22B-09], 66 (46), pp. 922, 1985.

Boczar-Karakiewicz, B., W. Romanczyk, J.L. Bona, and E.B. Thornton, Modeling the Dynamics of a Bar System at Duck, NC, USA, Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 2877-2887, 1998.

Bryan, K.R., and A.J. Bowen, Can bar-trapped edge waves cause bar formation, bar movement or bar growth?, Proceedings of Pacific Coasts and Ports '97, Christchurch, New Zealand, Centre for Advanced Engineering, v. 2, pp. 1037-1042, 1997.

Gallagher, E.L., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Observations and predictions of sand bar motion during Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O11A-09], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 282, 1995.

Gallagher, E.L., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Observations and predictions of sand bar motions, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, FL, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 78-79, 1996.

Gallagher, E.L., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C2), 3203-3215, 1998.

Holman, R.A., Shoreward propagating accretion waves, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-11], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 388, 1996.

Holman, R.A., and T.C. Lippmann, Remote sensing of nearshore bar systems; making morphology visible, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 929-944, 1987.

Holman, R.A., T.C. Lippmann, and W.A. Birkemeier, The Energy Spectrum of Shoreline and Sand Bar Morphology,  93-0381, U. S. Geological Survey, 72-73 p., 1993.

Holman, R.A., and A.H. Sallenger, Jr., Sand bar generation: a discussion of the Duck experiment series, Journal of Coastal Research, SI (15), 76-92, 1993.

Holman, R.A., and H.F. Stockdon, Why doesn't Scripps Beach have sand bars?, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-14], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 336, 1994.

Konicki, K.M., and R.A. Holman, Transverse bars in Duck, North Carolina, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, FL, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 3588-3599, 1996.

Konicki, K.M., and R.A. Holman, Transverse sand bars at Duck, North Carolina, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-10], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 388, 1996.

Larson, M., and N.C. Kraus, Analysis of Cross-Shore Movement of Natural Longshore Bars and Material Placed to Create Longshore Bars,  DRP-92-5, US Army Corps of Engineers, 118 p., 1992.

Larson, M., and N.C. Kraus, Dynamics of longshore bars, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 2219-2232, 1992.

Larson, M., and N.C. Kraus, Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina, Marine Geology, 117 (1-4), 75-94, 1994.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Sequential morphological stages on a naturally barred beach, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O31A-313], 68 (44), pp. 1311, 1987.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Quantification of sand bar morphology: A video technique based on wave dissipation, Journal of Geophysical Research, 94 (C1), 995-1011, 1989.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Wave Dissipation on a Barred Beach: A Method for Determining Sand Bar Morphology,  CERC-CR-89-1, Oregon State University, 58 p., 1989.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology, Journal of Geophysical Research, 95 (C7), 11,575-11,590, 1990.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Episodic, non-stationary behavior of a two sand bar system at Duck, NC, USA, Journal of Coastal Research, SI (15), 49-75, 1993.

Miller, H.C., J.S. Smith, D.G. Hamilton, and D.T. Resio, Cross-shore transport processes during onshore bar migration, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, N.Y., American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 1065-1080, 1999.

Plant, N.G., The role of morphologic feedback in surf zone and sand bar response, Ph.D. thesis, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, 167 p., 1998.

Plant, N.G., R.A. Holman, M.H. Freilich, and W.A. Birkemeier, A simple model for interannual sandbar behavior, Journal of Geophysical Research, 104 (C7), 15755-15776, 1999.

Romanczyk, W., B. Boczar-Karakiewicz, E.B. Thornton, and J.L. Bona, Sand Bars at Duck, North Carolina, U.S.A.: Observations and Model Predictions, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, New York, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 1, pp. 491-504, 1999.

Savage, R.J., Modes of longshore variability in the development of a bar-trough morphology, Ph.D. thesis, College of William and Mary, 78 p., 1988.

Thornton, E.B., R.T. Humiston, and W. Birkemeier, Bar/trough generation on a natural beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 101 (C5), 12097-12110, 1996.

BEACH CUSPS

Burnet, T., E. Gallagher, M. Okihiro, B. Raubenheimer, R. Whitsel, B. Vanhoff, S. Elgar, and B.T. Werner, Field tests of theories for beach cusp formation, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-11], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 336, 1994.

Burnet, T.K., B.T. Werner, and S. Elgar, Effect of tides on beach cusp formation, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-01], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 387, 1996.

Holland, K.T., Beach cusp formation and spacings at Duck, USA, Continental Shelf Research, 18 (10), 1081-1098, 1998.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Factors controlling beach cusp spacings at Duck, NC, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21B-9], 76 (46), pp. 293, 1995.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Field observations of beach cusps and swash motions, Marine Geology, 134 (1-2), 77-93, 1996.

Miller, J.R., S.M.O. Miller, C.A. Torzynski, and R.C. Kochel, Beach cusp destruction, formation, and evolution during and subsequent to an extratropical storm, Duck, North Carolina, Journal of Geology, 97 (6), 749-760, 1989.

Plant, N.G., and R.A. Holman, Estimates of time-averaged sediment transport rates over evolving beach cusps and mega-cusps, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-10], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 335-336, 1994.

Sato, M., K. Kuroki, and T. Shinohara, A field experiment on the formation of beach cusps, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 2205-2218, 1992.

Werner, B., T. Burnet, and S. Elgar, Swash flow patterns coincident with beach cusp formation, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS31A-12 POSTER], 77, pp. 420, 1996.

BEDFORMS AND BOTTOM ROUGHNESS

Chang, Y.S., C. Conner, D.M. Hanes, E. Thosteson, and C.E. Vincent, Suspended sediment and bedform dynamics at Duck, NC, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12F-03], 78 (46), pp. 340, 1997.

Dickson, P.J., and T.G. Drake, Nearshore bedform pattern evolution:  lab studies, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS31A-11 POSTER], 77 (46), pp. 420, 1996.

Gallagher, E.L., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Observations of migrating megaripples, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-03], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 387, 1996.

Gallagher, E.L., S. Elgar, and E.B. Thornton, Megaripple migration in a natural surf zone, Nature, 394 (6689), 165-168, 1998.

Hanes, D.M., V. Alymov, E.D. Thosteson, Y. Chang, and C.E. Vincent, Local seabed morphology and small scale sedimentation processes during SandyDuck97, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12F-02], 79 (45), pp. 444, 1998.

Hanes, D.M., C.D. Jette, E.D. Thosteson, and C.E. Vincent, Field observations of nearshore, wave-seabed interactions, Coastal Dynamics '97,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 11-18, 1997.

Hay, A.E., Megaripple kinematics during Duck94; a question of sliding, or colliding, scales?, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22B-07], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 297-298, 1995.

Hay, A.E., and A.J. Bowen, On longshore migration of lunate megaripples during Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-02], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 387, 1996.

Jetté, C.D., Wave generated bedforms in the near-shore sand environment, Ph.D. thesis, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL, 134 p., 1997.

Jetté, C.D., and D.M. Hanes, Measurements and model comparisons of wave generated bedforms, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O12B-02], 77 (46), pp. 421, 1995.

Jetté, C.D., and D.M. Hanes, Measurements of wave generated bedforms, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, FL, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 3129-3142, 1996.

Jetté, C.D., and D.M. Hanes, High resolution sea-bed imaging:  an acoustic multiple transducer array, Measurement Science and Technology, 8, 787-792, 1997.

Li, M.Z., L.D. Wright, and C.L. Amos, Predicting ripple roughness and sand resuspension under combined flows in a shoreface environment, Marine Geology, 130 (1-2), 139-161, 1996.

Stanton, T.P., and E.B. Thornton, Reynolds stress and small-scale morphology measurements during Duck94., Proceedings of the 25th International Conference of Coastal Engineering, Orlando, FL, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 4, pp. 4079-4087, 1996.

Swayne, J.L., Small-scale morphology related to wave and current parameters across the surf zone, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 74 p., 1995.

Thornton, E.B., J.L. Swayne, and J.R. Dingler, Small-scale morphology across the surf zone, Marine Geology, 145 (3-4), 173-196, 1998.

Vincent, C.E., and K. Black, Fine-scale resuspension processes by waves over flat and rippled beds: field observations, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS21C-30], 79 (45), pp. 452, 1998.

Xu, J.P., and L.D. Wright, Tests of bed roughness models using field data, Continental Shelf Research, 15 (11/12), 1409-1434, 1995.

BOTTOM BOUNDARY LAYER

Faria, A.F.G., E.B. Thornton, T.P. Stanton, C.V. Soares, and T.C. Lippmann, Vertical profiles of longshore currents and related bed shear stress and bottom roughness, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C2), 3217-3232, 1998.

Foster, D.L., R.A. Beach, and R.A. Holman, Phase relationships within the bottom boundary layer as measured during the Duck94 field experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-02], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 334, 1994.

Haines, J.W., and G. Gelfenbaum, Field measurements of turbulent stresses during the Duck94 nearshore processes experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22B-10], 76 (46), pp. 298, 1995.

Kim, S.C., L.D. Wright, and B.O. Kim, The combined effects of synoptic-scale and local-scale meteorological events on bed stress and sediment transport on the inner shelf of the Middle Atlantic Bight, Continental Shelf Research, 17 (4), 407-433, 1997.

Maa, J.P.Y., C.H. Lee, and F.J. Chen, Bed shear stress measurements for VIMS Sea Carousel, Marine Geology, 129 (1-2), 129-136, 1995.

Soares, C.M., Vertical profiles of longshore currents, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 81 p., 1995.

Trowbridge, J.H., and Y.C. Agrawal, Glimpses of a wave boundary layer, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (10), 20,729-20,743, 1995.

Xu, J., Suspended sediment concentration profiles in the bottom boundary layer, Ph.D. thesis, College of William and Mary, 131 p., 1993.

NEARSHORE CIRCULATION AND WAVE TRASPORT MODELS

Earle, M.D., Applied and operational surf modeling, Shore and Beach, 67 (1), 70-75, 1999.

Faria, A.F., E.B. Thornton, and T.P. Stanton, A quasi-3D model of longshore currents, Coastal Dynamics '95,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 389-400, 1995.

Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Investigating nearshore circulation using inverse methods, Coastal Dynamics '97, Plymouth, UK, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 973-982, 1997.

Hands, E.B., Potential of seabed drifters for nearshore circulation studies, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 865-880, 1987.

Rennie, S., Effects of a nearshore buoyant plume on inner shelf circulation, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11I-03], 77 (3 Suppl.), pp. 15, 1996.

COASTAL STRUCTURES

Dennis, W.A., and H.C. Miller, Shoreline response Oregon inlet terminal groin construction, Proceedings of the International Coastal Symposium, Hilton Head Island, South Carolina,,, pp., 1993.

Elgar, S., W.C. O'Reilly, B. Raubenheimer, R.T. Guza, and T.H. Herbers, Pier effects on wind waves, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#0S71D-11], 79 (45), pp. 401, 1998.

Miller, H.C., W.A. Birkemeier, and A.E. DeWall, Effects of CERC research pier on nearshore processes, Proceedings of Coastal Structures '83,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 769-784, 1983.

Overton, M.F., J.S. Fisher, W.A. Dennis, and H.C. Miller, Shoreline change at Oregon inlet terminal groin, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 2332-2343, 1993.

DIRECTIONAL AND HIGHER ORDER SPECTRA

Borhash, M.I., Observed directional spectra of shoaling and breaking waves, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 46 p., 1998.

Fernandes, A.A., Y.V.B. Sarma, and H.B. Menon, Wave directional spectrum from array measurements, International Conference in Ocean Engineering, Chennai, India, Allied, pp. 243-248, 1996.

Fernandes, A.A., Y.V.B. Sarma, and H.B. Menon, Directional spectrum of ocean waves from array measurements using phase/time/path difference methods, Ocean Engineering, 27 (4), 345-363, 2000.

Frasier, S.J., Y. Liu, D. Moller, R.E. McIntosh, and C.E. Long, Directional ocean wave measurements in a coastal setting using a focused array imaging radar, IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing, 33 (2), 428-440, 1995.

Grosskopf, W.G., D.G. Aubrey, M.G. Mattie, and M. Mathiesen, Field intercomparison of nearshore directional wave sensors, IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, OE-8 (4), 254-271, 1983.

Herbers, T.H.C., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Longterm array observations of surface waves, Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Barcelona, Spain, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 249-251, 1994.

Lichy, D.E., Directional wave data during ARSLOE using side looking airborne radar, Oceans '82, Washington, DC,,, pp. 907-908, 1982.

Long, C.E., Use of Theoretical Wave Height Distributions in Directional Seas, Technical Report v91-6, US Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 107 p., 1991.

Long, C.E., Three-parameter characterization of shallow-water directional wind wave spectra, Technical Report CERC-94-1, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station`, 129 p., 1994.

Long, C.E., Joint Wind Wave Height-Frequency-Direction Statistics at Two Disparate Sites, Technical Report WES/TR /CHL-98-10, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, 109 p., 1998.

Long, C.E., and J.M. Oltman-Shay, Directional characteristics of waves in shallow water, Technical Report CERC-91-1, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 129 p., 1991.

Long, C.E., and J.M. Oltman-Shay, Preliminary estimates of frequency-direction spectra derived from the SAMSON pressure gage array, November 1990 to May 1991, Miscellaneous Report CERC-93-3, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 91 p., 1993.

Miller, H.C., and C.L. Vincent, Parameterization of spectra during the SUPERDUCK storm, EOS Transactions of American Geophisical Union, [#O22A-04], 68 (44), pp. 1309, 1987.

Miller, H.C., and C.L. Vincent, FRF spectrum, TMA with Kitaigorodskii's f-4 scaling, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 116 (1), 57-78, 1990.

Nye, T., and T. Yamamoto, Concurrent measurements of the directional spectra of microseismic energy and surface gravity-waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 99 (C7), 14321-14338, 1994.

Nye, T., and T. Yamamoto, Field-test of buried ocean-wave directional spectrometer system, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 120 (5), 451-467, 1994.

Nye, T.E., Measurements of the directional spectra of surface gravity waves and seafloor microseisms using a pressure sensor and two buried horizontal seismometers, 148 p., 1992.

Russnogle, N.R., Spectral energy balance of waves in the surf zone, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 41 p., 1998.

Schuler, D.L., W.C. Keller, and W.J. Plant, A 3-frequency scatterometer technique for the measurement of ocean wave spectra, IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, 16 (3), 244-253, 1991.

Schuler, D.L., W.T. Plant, and H.C. Miller, Experimental verification of the three-frequency scatterometer concept, OCEANS '84,,,, pp., 1984.

Teng, C.C., Observations of directional waves from NDBC buoys during the SandyDuck '97 experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS52A-6], pp. 49, 1998.

Terray, E., R.L. Gordon, and B. Brumley, Measuring wave height and direction using upward-looking ADCPs, Proceedings of Oceans '97, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, MTS/IEEE, v. 1, pp. 287-290, 1997.

EDGE WAVES

Bryan, K.R., and A.J. Bowen, Edge wave-trapping and amplification on barred beaches, Journal of Geophysical Research, 101 (C3), 6543-6552, 1996.

Bryan, K.R., and A.J. Bowen, Can bar-trapped edge waves cause bar formation, bar movement or bar growth?, Proceedings of Pacific Coasts and Ports '97, Christchurch, New Zealand, Centre for Advanced Engineering, v. 2, pp. 1037-1042, 1997.

Bryan, K.R., and A.J. Bowen, Bar-trapped edge waves and longshore currents, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C12), 27867-27884, 1998.

Bryan, K.R., P.A. Howd, and A.J. Bowen, Field observations of bar-trapped edge waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C1), 1285-1305, 1998.

Burnet, T., E. Gallagher, M. Okihiro, B. Raubenheimer, R. Whitsel, B. Vanhoff, S. Elgar, and B.T. Werner, Field tests of theories for beach cusp formation, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-11], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 336, 1994.

Elgar, S., T.H.C. Herbers, M. Okihiro, J. Oltman-Shay, and R.T. Guza, Observations of infragravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 97 (C10), 15,573-15,577, 1992.

Herbers, T.H.C., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Generation and propagation of infragravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C12), 24,863-24,872, 1995.

Herbers, T.H.C., S. Elgar, R.T. Guza, and W.C. O'Reilly, Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) motions on the shelf, Part II: Free waves, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 25 (6), 1063-1079, 1995.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Field observations of beach cusps and swash motions, Marine Geology, 134 (1-2), 77-93, 1996.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Wavenumber-frequency structure of infragravity swash motions, Journal of Geophysical Research, 104 (C6), 13479-13488, 1999.

Howd, P.A., A.J. Bowen, and R.A. Holman, Complex topography on a plane beach; the effective beach profile for edge waves, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O11D-12], 71 (43), pp. 1356, 1990.

Howd, P.A., A.J. Bowen, and R.A. Holman, Edge waves in the presence of strong longshore currents, Journal of Geophysical Research, 97 (C7), 11,357-11,371, 1992.

List, J.H., A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat, Journal of Geophysical Research, 97 (C4), 5623-5635, 1992.

Sheremet, A., and R.T. Guza, A weakly dispersive edge wave model, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS71D-08], 79 (45 Suppl.), pp. 401, 1998.

DATA AND EXPERIMENT SUMMARIES

Birkemeier, W.A., SAMPSON and DELILAH at the FRF, The CERCular Report CERC-91-1, 6 p., 1991.

Birkemeier, W.A., The Duck94 nearshore field experiment, Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Barcelona, Spain, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 815-821, 1994.

Birkemeier, W.A., C.F. Baron, N.W. Leffler, H.C. Miller, J.B. Strider, and K.K. Hathaway, SUPERDUCK Nearshore Processes Experiment, Technical Report CERC-88-12, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 82 p., 1988.

Birkemeier, W.A., C. Donoghue, C.E. Long, K.K. Hathaway, and C.F. Baron, 1990 DELILAH Nearshore Experiment: Summary Report, Technical Report CHL-97-24, US Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 213 p., 1997.

Birkemeier, W.A., C.E. Long, and K.K. Hathaway, DELILAH, DUCK94 & SandyDuck: Three Nearshore Field Experiments, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, FL, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 4052-4065, 1996.

Birkemeier, W.A., J.B. Strider, B.F. Clifford, and K.K. Hathaway, Field data from the DUCK85 field experiment for the evaluation of nearshore numerical models, Prototype Measurements to Validate Models of Coastal Processes, Sogreah,,, pp. 50-75, 1988.

Burns, R.F., SandyDuck 97, Sea Technology, 39 (1), 51, 1998.

Crescenti, G.H., T.L. Crawford, and E.J. Dumas, Data Report: LongEZ (N3R) Participation in the 1999 Shoaling Waves Experiment (SHOWEX) Spring Pilot Study, Technical Report NOAA-TM-ERL-ARL-232, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 104 p., 1999.

Crowson, R.A., W.A. Birkemeier, H.M. Klein, and H. Miller, C., SUPERDUCK Nearshore Processes Experiment: Summary of Studies CERC Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-88-12, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 116 p., 1988.

DeWall, A.E., Investigation of Scour Protection for Small Footings in the Nearshore Zone, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-83-4, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 57 p., 1983.

Fowler, J.E., W. Birkemeier, J.A. Denson, and D. Krivich, Cooperative Laboratory and Field Study to Investigate Effects of Wave and Current Action on Dual-Rocket Distributed Explosive Array Deployment, Technical Report CERC-93-7, Coastal Engineering Research Facility, 73 p., 1993.

Fowler, J.E., J.H. Roughton, A.W. Deer, and D.E. Krivich, Field Study on the Effects of Waves and Currents on a Distributed Explosive Array, Technical Report CERC-93-20, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 82 p., 1993.

Howd, P.A., and W.A. Birkemeier, Beach and Nearshore Survey Data; 1981-1984, CERC Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-87-9, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 139 p., 1987.

Hyde, B.D., SandyDuck 97: 'Lost our way'?, Sea Technology, 39 (3), 87-87, 1998.

Lee, G.-H., and W.A. Birkemeier, Beach and Nearshore Survey Data: 1985-1991 CERC Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-93-3, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 26 p., 1993.

Leffler, M.W., Annual data summary for 1993 CERC Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-95-6, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, p., 1995.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baon, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and R.T. Hayes, Annual Data Summary for 1989 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendixes A and B, Technical Report CERC-TR-91-9-VOL-1, Coastal Engineering Research Facility, 155 p., 1991.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, and K.K. Hathaway, Annual Data Summary for 1991 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 1: Main Text and Appendixes A and B, Technical Report CERC-93-9-VOL. 1, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 120 p., 1993.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and R.T. Hayes, Annual Data Summary for 1990 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendixes A and B, Technical Report CERC-92-3, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 155 p., 1992.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and R.T. Hayes, Annual Data Summary for 1990 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 2. Appendixes C through E, Technical Report CERC-92-3-VOL-2, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 89 p., 1992.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and P.R. Hodges, Annual Data Summary for 1992 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 1: Main Text and Appendices A and B, Technical Report CERC-95-10, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 114 p., 1995.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and P.R. Hodges, Annual Data Summary for 1992 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 2. Appendices C Through E, Techincal Report CERC-95-10, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 87 p., 1995.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and P.R. Hodges, Annual Data Summary for 1993 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 2: Appendixes C Through E, Technical Report WES/TR/CERC-95-6, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 88 p., 1995.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and P.R. Hodges, Annual data summary for 1994 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume I. Main Text and Appendixes A and B, Technical Report CERC-96-6-VOL-1, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 120 p., 1996.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, K.K. Hathaway, and P.R. Hodges, Annual Data Summary for 1994 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume II. Appendixes C and E, Technical Report CERC-96-6-VOL-2, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 93 p., 1996.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, and K.R. Hathaway, Annual Data Summary for 1991 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 2: Appendixes C through E, Technical Report CERC-93-9-VOL-2, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 85 p., 1993.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, P.R. Hodges, and C.R. Townsend, Annual Data Summary for 1995 CHL Field Research Facility. Volume I: Main Text and Appendixes A and B, Technical Report WES/TR /CHL-98-14-VOL-1, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, 112 p., 1998.

Leffler, M.W., C.F. Baron, B.L. Scarborough, P.R. Hodges, and C.R. Townsend, Annual Data Summary for 1995 CHL Field Research Facility. Volume II: appendixes C Through E, Technical Report WES/TR /CHL-98-14-VOL-2, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, 92 p., 1998.

Leffler, M.W., K.K. Hathaway, B.L. Scarborough, C.F. Baron, and H.C. Miller, Annual Data Summary for 1987 CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendixes A and B. Volume 2. Appendixes C-E, Technical Report CERC-TR-89-10-VOL-1/2, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 115 p., 1989.

Leffler, M.W., K.K. Hathaway, B.L. Scarborough, C.F. Baron, and H.C. Miller, Annual Data Summary for 1987 CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility. Volume 2. Appendixes C through E, Technical Report CERC-TR-89-10-VOL-2, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 86 p., 1989.

Leffler, M.W., K.K. Hathaway, G.L. Scarborough, C.F. Baron, and H.C. Miller, Annual Data Summary for 1988 CERC Field Research Facility. Volume 2. Appendixes C through E, Technical Report CERC-90-13, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 89 p., 1990.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at a CERC Field Research Facility September 1986 to August 1987, Miscellaneous Report CERC-91-6, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 22 p., 1991.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1987 to August 1988, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-91-7, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 70 p., 1991.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1988 to August 1989, Miscellaneous Report CERC-93-1, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 89 p., 1993.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1989 to August 1990, Miscellaneous Report CERC-94-2, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 83 p., 1994.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1990 to August 1991, Miscellaneous Report CERC-94-5, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 98 p., 1994.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1991 to August 1992, Miscellaneous Report CERC-94-7, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 113 p., 1994.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1992 to August 1993, Miscellaneous Report CERC-94-6, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 114 p., 1994.

Long, C.E., Storm evolution of directional seas in shallow water, Technical Report CERC-94-2, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 26 p., 1994.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1993 to  May 1994, Miscellaneous Report CERC-95-5, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 97 p., 1995.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, June 1994 to August 1995, Miscellaneous Report CERC-96-5, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 142 p., 1996.

Long, C.E., Index and Bulk Parameters for Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CHL Field Research Facility, September 1995 to August 1996, Miscellaneous Report CHL-97-8, U.S. Army Engineers Waterway Station, 120 p., 1997.

Long, C.E., and A.H. Sallenger, Jr., Experiment at Duck, N.C., beach explores nearshore processes, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, 76 (49), 501-507, 1995.

Mason, C., W.A. Birkemeier, and P.A. Howd, Overview of DUCK85 nearshore processes experiment, Proceedings of the 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Taipei, Taiwan, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 818-833, 1986.

Mason, C., A.H. Sallenger, R.A. Holman, and W.A. Birkemeier, DUCK82 - A coastal storm processes experiment, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 1913-1928, 1984.

Miller, H.C., CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility Environmental Data Summary, 1977-79, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MR-82-16, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 145 p., 1982.

Miller, H.C., CERC Field Research Facility environmental data summary, Miscellaneous Report CERC-82-16, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 144 p., 1982.

Miller, H.C., Annual Data Summary for 1980, CERC Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-TR-84-1, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 170 p., 1984.

Miller, H.C., W.E. Grogg, Jr., M.W. Leffler, C.R. Townsend, III, and S.C. Wheeler, Annual Data Summary for 1983 CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-TR-86-9, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 241 p., 1986.

Miller, H.C., W.E. Grogg, M.W. Leffler, C.R. Townsend, and S.C. Wheeler, Annual Data Summary for 1984 CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-TR-86-11, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1986 p., 1986.

Miller, H.C., W.E. Grogg, J.R. Rottier, M.W. Leffler, and C.R. Townsend, Annual Data Summary for 1981 CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility, Technical Report, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 262 p., 1985.

Miller, H.C., M.W. Leffler, W.E. Grogg Jr, S.C. Wheeler, and C.R. Townsend III, Annual Data Summary for 1982 CERC Field Research Facility, Technical Report CERC-TR-86-5, US Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 257 p., 1986.

Miller, H.C., A. Militello, M.W. Leffler, W.E. Grogg, and M.M. Dominguez, Annual Data Summary and Climatological Evaluation CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility, 1985. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendixes A and B, Technical Report CERC-TR-87-13-VOL-1, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 93 p., 1987.

Miller, H.C., A. Militello, M.W. Leffler, W.E. Grogg, and M.M. Dominguez, Annual Data Summary and Climatological Evaluation, CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility, 1985. Volume 2. Appendix C, Technical Report CERC-TR-87-13-VOL-2, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 128 p., 1987.

Miller, H.C., A. Militello, M.W. Leffler, W.E. Grogg, and B.L. Scarborough, Annual Data Summary for 1986 CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendix A, Technical Report CERC-TR-88-8-VOL-1, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 93 p., 1988.

Miller, H.C., A. Militello, M.W. Leffler, W.E. Grogg, and B.L. Scarborough, Annual Data Summary for 1986 CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility. Volume 2. Appendix B, Technical Report CERC-TR-88-8-VOL-2, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 82 p., 1988.

Wakefield, J., Scientists conduct largest coastal experiment on record, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, 75 (43), 505, 1994.

Williams, A.E., Duck '94 caps engineers' efforts, Sea Technology, 36 (1), 36-37, 1995.

FACILITY GUIDES AND EQUIPMENT DESCRIPTIONS

Anonymous, Coastal Engineering Research Center Field Research Center, Field Research Facility at Duck, North Carolina, enviornmental impact statement Report ELR-0581, Army Engineer District, 152 p., 1973.

Anonymous, Coastal Engineering Research Center Field Research Facility at Duck, North Carolina, enviornmental impact statement Report EIS-NC-73-0581-D, Army Engineer District, 49 p., 1973.

Birkemeier, W.A., A.E. DeWall, C.S. Gorbics, and H.C. Miller, A User's Guide to CERC's Field Research Facility, Miscellaneous Report 81-7, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 118 p., 1981.

Birkemeier, W.A., and C. Mason, The CRAB: A unique nearshore surveying vehicle, Journal of Surveying Engineering, 110 (1), 1-7, 1984.

Birkemeier, W.A., H.C. Miller, S.D. Wilhelm, A.E. DeWall, and C.S. Gorbics, A User's Guide to the Coastal Engineering Research Centers (CERC's) Field Research Facility, miscellaneous Report CERC-85-1, United States Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, 136 p., 1985.

Bodge, K.R., The Design, Development, and Evaluation of a Differential Pressure Gauge Directional Wave Monitor, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MR-82-11, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 246 p., 1982.

Campi, M., and J.D. Penar, Lightning Protection Guidelines for the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) Facilities, Technical Report HDL-TM-79-9, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 51 p., 1979.

Clausner, J.E., W.A. Birkemeier, and G.R. Clark, Field Comparison of Four Nearshore Survey Systems, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-86-6, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 29 p., 1986.

Fowler, J.E., J.D. Rosati, D.G. Hamilton, and J.M. Smith, Development of a large-scale laboratory facility for longshore sediment transport research, CERCular, 95 (2), 1-5, 1995.

Groff, W.E., Jr., Calibration and Stability Characteristics of the Baylor Staff Wave Gage, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-86-7, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 28 p., 1986.

Guan-Hong Lee, and W.A. Birkemeier, Beach and Nearshore Survey Data: 1985-1991 CERC Field Research Facility, Technical Report v93-3, US Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 253 p., 1993.

Lichy, D.E., and M.G. Mattie, A ground truth site for testing remote sensing techniques to study coastal and marine phenomena., Proceedings of the 6th Annual Conference of the Remote Sensing Society,, The Remote Sensing Society, pp. 95-104, 1980.

Mason, C., The Coastal Engineering Research Center's Field Research Facility at Duck, North Carolina, Shore & Beach, 47 (2), 13-16, 1979.

Mason, C., The CERC Field Research Facility - over 4 years of productivity, CERCular, 85 (1), 1-5, 1985.

Mason, C., Recent R&D accomplishments at the Coastal Engineering Research Center Field Research Facility, Proceedings of Oceans '85 "Engineering and the Environment", San Deigo, CA,, v. 1, pp. 78-84, 1985.

Mason, C., T.L. Walton, Jr., and T.M. Leahy, The Coastal Engineering Research Center's Field Research Facility at Duck, N.C, Beach Seminar '78, Gainesville (USA). Sea Grant College Program., Florida Univ., pp., 1978.

Meisburger, E.P., S.J. Williams, and C. Judge, Physiographic and Geological Setting of the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Field Research Facility, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-89-9, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 32 p., 1989.

Miller, H.C., Instrumentation at CERC's Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina, Miscellaneous Report 80-8, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 42 p., 1980.

Miller, H.C., A coastal data system for long-term comprehensive measurements of nearshore processes, IEEE Proceedings of the Fourth Working Symposium on Oceanographic Data Systems,,,, pp., 1986.

Miller, H.C., A topographic survey system for the surf and nearshore, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Surveying Conference Proceedings,,,, pp., 1991.

Miller, H.C., W.A. Birkemeier, and A.E. DeWall, Effects of CERC research pier on nearshore processes, Proceedings of Coastal Structures '83,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 769-784, 1983.

Pollock, C.B., Helicopter-borne nearshore survey system, a valuable tool in difficult survey areas, Journal of Coastal Research, 11 (3), 959-966, 1995.

Raubenheimer, B., and S. Elgar, Ocean observations - where the surf meets the turf - exploring phenomena that affect the coast at the Field Research Facility, Duck, NC, Oceanus, 42 (1), 24, 2000.

Woody, C.E., R. Dagnall, E. Michelena, D. McGehee, G. Bichner, and T. Mero, Oceanographic test facility at Duck Pier, NC, Proceedings of Oceans '97, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, MTS/IEEE, v. 2, pp. 1094-1098, 1997.

FAUNA/FLORA

Amend, M., and A. Shanks, Timing of larval release in the mole crab Emerita talpoida, Marine Ecology-Progress Series, 183, 295-300, 1999.

Bowman, M.L., The relationship of emerita talpoida to beach characteristics, Masters thesis, University of Virginia, Charlottesville, 116 p., 1981.

Diaz, R.J., and J.T. DeAlteris, Long-Term Changes in Beach Fauna at Duck, North Carolina, Miscellaneous Report MR-82-12, US Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 48 p., 1982.

Harris, R.L., G.F. Levy, and J.E. Perry, Reevaluation of Vegetational Characteristics at the CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center) Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina, Miscellaneous Report CERCMR-83-4, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 129 p., 1983.

Levy, G.F., Vegetative Study at the Duck Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina., Miscellaneous Report 76-6, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 80 p., 1976.

Matta, J.F., Beach Fauna Study of the CERC Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina, Miscellaneous Report CERCMR-77-6, Old Dominion University, VA  Dept. of Biological Sciences, 105 p., 1977.

Miller-Way, C.A., and D.A. Nelson, Dredging Operations Technical Support Program: Preliminary Investigation of the Short-Term Effects of Storms on Sedimentary Characteristics and the Nearshore Fauna Using the Sediment Profiling Camera System, miscellaneous Report WES/MP-D-88-4, Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 23 p., 1988.

Miller-Way, C.A., and D.A. Nelson, Preliminary Investigation of the Short-Term Effects of Storms on Sedimentary Characteristics and the Nearshore Fauna Using the Sediment Profiling Camera System, Miscellaneous Report D-88-4, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 19 p., 1988.

Shanks, A.L., Abundance of post-larval Callinectes sapidus, Penaeus spp., Uca spp., and Libinia spp. collected at an outer coastal site and their cross-shelf transport, Marine Ecology-Progress Series, 168, 57-69, 1998.

INFRAGRAVITY MOTIONS

Chen, Y.Z., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water, Journal of Geophysical Research, 102 (C11), 25035-25046, 1997.

Elgar, S., R.T. Guza, B. Raubenheimer, T.H.C. Herbers, and E.L. Gallagher, Spectral evolution of shoaling and breaking waves on a barred beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 102 (C7), 15797-15805, 1997.

Elgar, S., T.H.C. Herbers, V. Chandran, and R.T. Guza, Higher-order spectral analysis of nonlinear ocean surface gravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C3), 4977-4983, 1995.

Elgar, S., T.H.C. Herbers, and R. Guza, T., Reflection of ocean surface gravity waves from a natural beach, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 24 (7), 1503-1511, 1994.

Elgar, S., T.H.C. Herbers, and R.T. Guza, Nearshore observations of nonlinear ocean surface gravity waves, Naval Research Reviews, 48 (3), 41-52, 1996.

Elgar, S., T.H.C. Herbers, M. Okihiro, J. Oltman-Shay, and R.T. Guza, Observations of infragravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 97 (C10), 15,573-15,577, 1992.

Herbers, T.H.C., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) motions on the shelf. Part I: Forced waves, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 24 (5), 917-927, 1994.

Herbers, T.H.C., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Generation and propagation of infragravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C12), 24,863-24,872, 1995.

Herbers, T.H.C., S. Elgar, R.T. Guza, and W.C. O'Reilly, Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) motions on the shelf, Part II: Free waves, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 25 (6), 1063-1079, 1995.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Wavenumber-frequency structure of infragravity swash motions, Journal of Geophysical Research, 104 (C6), 13479-13488, 1999.

Howd, P.A., J. Oltman-Shay, and R.A. Holman, Wave variance partitioning in the trough of a barred beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 96 (C7), 12,781-12,795, 1991.

Lippmann, T.C., T.H.C. Herbers, and E.B. Thornton, The cross-shore variation of infragravity wave pressure and velocities in shallow water, Coastal Dynamics '97,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1023-1032, 1997.

Lippmann, T.C., T.H.C. Herbers, and E.B. Thornton, Gravity and shear wave contributions to nearshore infragravity motions, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 29 (2), 231-239, 1999.

List, J.H., Wave groupiness as a source of nearshore long waves, Proceedings of the 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Taipei, Taiwan, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 497-511, 1986.

List, J.H., A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat, Journal of Geophysical Research, 97 (C4), 5623-5635, 1992.

Okihiro, M., and R.T. Guza, Infragravity energy modulation by tides, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C8), 16,143-16,148, 1995.

Oltman-Shay, J., and K.K. Hathaway, Infragravity energy and its implications in nearshore sediment transport and sandbar dynamics, Technical Report CERC-89-8, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 34 p., 1989.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Wave transformation across the inner surf zone, Journal of Geophysical Research, 101 (C11), 25589-25597, 1996.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and N. Kobayashi, Swash on a gently sloping beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C5), 8751-8760, 1995.

Sallenger, A.H., Jr., and R.A. Holman, On predicting infragravity energy in the surf zone, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 1940-1951, 1984.

Thompson, E.F., and W.N. Seeling, High wave grouping in shallow water, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 110 (2), 139-157, 1984.

MORPHODYNAMICS

Beavers, R., P. Howd, W. Birkemeier, and K. Hathaway, Evaluating profile data and depth of closure with sonar altimetry, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, NY, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 1, pp. 479-490, 1999.

Beavers, R., P. Howd, and K. Hathaway, Shoreface morphodynamics; 2, bed elevation changes resulting from storm events, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22A-15], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 339, 1994.

Beavers, R.L., P.A. Howd, and K.K. Hathaway, Modern sedimentation records of bed elevation changes on the shoreface of Duck, NC, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 28 (7), pp. 44, 1996.

Birkemeier, W.A., Field data on seaward limit of profile change, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 111 (3), 598-602, 1985.

Birkemeier, W.A., Time scales of nearshore profile changes, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1507-1521, 1985.

Birkemeier, W.A., P.A. Howd, M. Alexander, B.L. Scarborough, and J.B. Strider, Nearshore morphology changes measured during the SUPERDUCK experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O31A-312], 68 (44), pp. 1311, 1987.

Birkemeier, W.A., R.J. Nicholls, and G. Lee, Storms, storm groups and nearshore morphologic change, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, NY, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 1109-1122, 1999.

Capobianco, M., R. Basana, and R. Pesaresi, Beach and nearshore profile evolution at different temporal scales; the case of Duck, North Carolina, U.S.A, Coastal Dynamics '95,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 629-638, 1995.

Clemenich, J.D., and R.K. Schwartz, Morphodynamic behavior of the nearshore system based upon time-series elevation data; Outer Banks, Duck, NC, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 30 (1), pp. 11, 1998.

Dickson, P.J., and T.G. Drake, Side-scan sonar studies of surf zone bed morphology, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#H41E-02], 79 (17), pp. 121, 1998.

Dickson, P.J., E.L. Gallagher, and T.G. Drake, Bathymetry and bottom characteristics in the surf zone during SandyDuck, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS51B-05], pp. 194, 1999.

Dubois, R.N., Development of a shoreline rhythm, Outer Banks of North Carolina, Marine Geology, 62 (1-2), 31-53, 1984.

Fowler, J.E., and E.R. Smith, Evaluation of laboratory and scale effects on a three- dimensional movable-bed sand model, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 166-174, 1987.

Gallagher, E.L., W. Boyd, S. Elgar, R.T. Guza, and B. Woodward, Performance of a sonar altimeter in the nearshore, Marine Geology, 133 (3-4), 241-248, 1996.

Gallagher, E.L., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C2), 3203-3215, 1998.

Hanes, D.M., V. Alymov, E.D. Thosteson, Y. Chang, and C.E. Vincent, Local seabed morphology and small scale sedimentation processes during SandyDuck97, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12F-02], 79 (45), pp. 444, 1998.

Holland, K.T., and A.H. Sallenger, Jr., Foreshore morphodynamics at Duck, NC, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS72F-12], 79 (45 Suppl.), pp. 417, 1998.

Holland, K.T., A.H. Sallenger, Jr., B. Raubenheimer, and S. Elgar, Swash zone morphodynamics and sediment transport processes, Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 2799-2809, 1998.

Holman, R.A., T.C. Lippmann, and W.A. Birkemeier, The Energy Spectrum of Shoreline and Sand Bar Morphology,  93-0381, U. S. Geological Survey, 72-73 p., 1993.

Holman, R.A., T.C. Lippmann, P.V. O'Neill, and K.K. Hathaway, Video estimation of subaerial beach profiles, Marine Geology, 97, 225-231, 1991.

Howd, P., Temporal and spatial scales of profile change in the outer surf zone, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22C-10], 74 (43 Suppl.), pp. 341, 1993.

Howd, P.A., and W.A. Birkemeier, Storm-induced morphology changes during DUCK85, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 834-847, 1987.

Howd, P.A., W.A. Birkemeier, and R.A. Holman, Sediment transport and the quantification of profile changes, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22B-06], 66 (46), pp. 922, 1985.

Howd, P.A., W.A. Birkemeier, and H. Stockdon, Interannual Changes in Bed Elevation; Outer Surf Zone, Duck, NC 1981-1991,  0196-1497, 74-77 p., 1993.

Howd, P.A., A.J. Bowen, and R.A. Holman, Complex topography on a plane beach; the effective beach profile for edge waves, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O11D-12], 71 (43), pp. 1356, 1990.

Jaffe, B.E., R.W. Sternberg, and A.H. Sallenger, Jr., The role of suspended sediment in shore-normal beach profile changes, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1983-1996, 1985.

Larson, M., M. Capobianco, and H. Hanson, Relationship between beach profiles and waves at Duck, North Carolina, determined by canonical correlation analysis, Marine Geology, 163 (1-4), 275-288, 2000.

Larson, M., H. Hanson, and M. Capobianco, Analysis and prediction of long-term beach evolution using advanced statistical methods, Third European Marine Science and Technology Conference, Lisbon, European Commission DG 12 Science, pp. 304-305, 1999.

Larson, M., and N.C. Kraus, Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina, Marine Geology, 117 (1-4), 75-94, 1994.

Lee, G.H., R.J. Nicholls, and W.A. Birkemeier, Storm-driven variability of the beach-nearshore profile at Duck, North Carolina, USA, 1981-1991, Marine Geology, 148 (3-4), 163-177, 1998.

Lee, G.H., R.J. Nicholls, W.A. Birkemeier, and S.P. Leatherman, A conceptual fairweather storm model of beach nearshore profile evolution at Duck, North-Carolina, USA, Journal of Coastal Research, 11 (4), 1157-1166, 1995.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Sequential morphological stages on a naturally barred beach, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O31A-313], 68 (44), pp. 1311, 1987.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology, Journal of Geophysical Research, 95 (C7), 11,575-11,590, 1990.

List, J.H., Regional-scale shoreline response to storms, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12F-06], 79 (45 Suppl.), pp. 455, 1998.

List, J.H., and A.S. Farris, Large-scale shoreline response to storms and fair weather, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, New York, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1324-1338, 1999.

Nicholls, R.J., and W.A. Birkemeier, Morphological and sediment budget controls on depth of closure at Duck, NC, Structures Congress XV, Portland, Oregon, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 496-505, 1997.

Nicholls, R.J., W.A. Birkemeier, and G.H. Lee, Evaluation of depth of closure using data from Duck, NC, USA, Marine Geology, 148 (3-4), 179-201, 1998.

Orlando, S.P., Intra-storm recovery on sandy sub-aerial beaches with emphasis on Duck, NC, Masters thesis, University of Maryland, College Park, 90 p., 1995.

Plant, N.G., The role of morphologic feedback in surf zone and sand bar response, Ph.D. thesis, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, 167 p., 1998.

Plant, N.G., and R.A. Holman, Frequency-wavenumber characterization of beach morphology, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21B-08], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 293, 1995.

Plant, N.G., and R.A. Holman, Intertidal beach profile estimation using video images, Marine Geology, 140 (1-2), 1-24, 1997.

Plant, N.G., R.A. Holman, and W.A. Birkemeier, Kinematics of alongshore propagating sand waves at Duck, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-12], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 388, 1996.

Plant, N.G., R.A. Holman, and K. Hathaway, Measurement of beach variability, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O32B-03], 73 (43 Suppl.), pp. 288, 1992.

Plant, P., and R. Holman, Interannual shoreline variations at Duck, NC, USA, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, Florida, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 3521-3533, 1996.

Sallenger, A.H., Jr., Undercurrents and Nearshore Erosion During Storms,  0364-6017, U.S. Geological Survey, 73-80 p., 1984.

Savage, R.J., Modes of longshore variability in the development of a bar-trough morphology, Ph.D. thesis, College of William and Mary, 78 p., 1988.

Southgate, H.N., and L.M. Beltran, Self-organizational processes in beach morphology, 8th International Conference on Physics of Estuaries and Coastal Seas, The Hague, Netherlands, A. A. Balkema, pp. 409-416, 1998.

Stauble, D.K., Long-term profile and sediment morphodynamics: Field Research Facility case history, Technical Report CERC-92-7, US Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 252 p., 1992.

Stauble, D.K., and M.A. Cialone, Sediment dynamics and profile interactions, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Orlando, FL, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 4, pp. 3921-3934, 1996.

Stauble, D.K., G.W. Holem, M.R. Byrnes, E.P. Meisburger, and F.J. Anders, Beach sediment and foreshore profile dynamics; the SUPERDUCK experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O31B-02], 69 (44), pp. 1250, 1988.

Wayland, R.J., and B.P. Hayden, Classification of Coastal Environments, Shorezone Profile Dynamics., Technical Report, University of Virginia, Dept. of Environmental Sciences, 63 p., 1984.

Wehmiller, J.F., Shoreface geologic processes inferred from aminostratigraphy of beach shells, mid- and Southeastern US Atlantic Coastal Plain, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 27 (6), pp. 78, 1995.

Weislogel, A.W., and R.K. Schwartz, Temporal and spatial aspects of erosional surface development in the nearshore zone, Duck, N.C.; unconformity analogue, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 30 (1), pp. 83, 1998.

Wright, L.D., C.T. Friedrichs, C.H. Hobbs, III, and P. Tiedeman, Nearshore-shelf sediment exchange in the Middle Atlantic Bight; a conceptual model for storm-driven shoreface dynamics, Linked Earth Systems; Congress Program and Abstracts,, Society of Economic Paleontologists and Mineralogists, v. 1, pp. 130, 1995.

Yang, S.L., A study of coastal morphodynamics on the muddy islands in the Changjiang River estuary, Journal of Coastal Research, 15 (1), 32-44, 1999.

NEARSHORE CURRENTS

Bryan, K.R., and A.J. Bowen, Bar-trapped edge waves and longshore currents, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C12), 27867-27884, 1998.

Church, J.C., and E.B. Thornton, Bottom stress modification by breaking waves within a longshore current model, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 3012-3025, 1992.

Church, J.C., and E.B. Thornton, Effects of breaking wave induced turbulence within a longshore current model, Coastal Engineering, 20 (1-2), 1-28, 1993.

Church, J.C., E.B. Thornton, and J. Oltman-Shay, Mixing by shear instabilities of the longshore current, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 2999-3011, 1992.

Dodd, N., On the destabilization of a longshore current on a plane beach: bottom shear-stress, critical conditions, and onset of instability, Journal of Geophysical Research, 99 (C1), 811-824, 1994.

Dodd, N., J. Oltman-Shay, and E.B. Thornton, Shear instabilities in the longshore current: A comparison of observation and theory, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 22 (1), 62-82, 1992.

Dodd, N., and E.B. Thornton, Growth and energetics of shear waves in the nearshore, Journal of Geophysical Research, 95 (C9), 16,075-16,083, 1990.

Faria, A.F., Simple quasi-three dimensional model of longshore currents over arbitrary profile, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 48 p., 1995.

Faria, A.F., Nearshore currents over a barred beach, Ph.D. thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 178 p., 1997.

Faria, A.F., E.B. Thornton, and T.P. Stanton, A quasi-3D model of longshore currents, Coastal Dynamics '95,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 389-400, 1995.

Faria, A.F.G., E.B. Thornton, T.P. Stanton, C.V. Soares, and T.C. Lippmann, Vertical profiles of longshore currents and related bed shear stress and bottom roughness, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C2), 3217-3232, 1998.

Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Investigating nearshore circulation using inverse methods, Coastal Dynamics '97, Plymouth, UK, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 973-982, 1997.

Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers, Observations of longshore current in Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O11A-10], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 282, 1995.

Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers, Cross-shore structure of longshore currents during Duck94, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, FL, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 418-419, 1996.

Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers, Surfzone bottom stress parameterizations, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11A-07], 78 (46), pp. 332, 1997.

Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers, Alongshore bottom stress parameterizations, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-09], 79 (45 Suppl.), pp. 423, 1998.

Feddersen, F., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H.C. Herbers, Alongshore momentum balances in the nearshore, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (C8), 15667-15676, 1998.

Friedrichs, C.T., L.D. Wright, and M. A., The critical role of the along-shelf current in determining dominant modes of sediment transport across the shoreface (inner shelf), EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22A-16], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 339-340, 1994.

Howd, P.A., A.J. Bowen, and R.A. Holman, Complex topography on a plane beach; the effective beach profile for edge waves, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O11D-12], 71 (43), pp. 1356, 1990.

Howd, P.A., A.J. Bowen, and R.A. Holman, Edge waves in the presence of strong longshore currents, Journal of Geophysical Research, 97 (C7), 11,357-11,371, 1992.

Lippmann, T.C., T.H.C. Herbers, and E.B. Thornton, The cross-shore variation of infragravity wave pressure and velocities in shallow water, Coastal Dynamics '97,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1023-1032, 1997.

Lippmann, T.C., and E.B. Thornton, Wave stress and longshore currents on barred profiles, Coastal Dynamics '95,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 401-412, 1995.

Lundberg, D.L., K.T. Holland, and J.C. Church, Semi-Empirical Longshore Current Model, Miscellaneous Report NRL/MR /7442--97-8066, Naval Research Lab, Stennis Space Center, 40 p., 1997.

Lundberg, D.L., K.T. Holland, and J.C. Church, Validation of the Semi-Empirical Longshore Current Model, Miscellaneous Report 7442-98-8092, Naval Research Laboratory, 34 p., 1999.

Meadows, G.A., L.A. Meadows, L.L. Weishar, and M.L. Fields, Longshore momentum balance analysis from the SUPERDUCK innershelf dynamics experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22A-01], 68 (44), pp. 1309, 1987.

Mettlach, T.R., and D.A. May, Accuracy of the Navy-Standard Surf Model-Derived Modified Surf Index and its Sensitivity to Nearshore Bathymetric Profile Errors, formal Report NRL/FR /7240--97-9665, Naval Research Lab, Stennis Space Center, 35 p., 1997.

Oltman-Shay, J., P.A. Howd, and W.A. Birkemeier, Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current: 2. field observations, Journal of Geophysical Research, 94 (C12), 18,031-18,042, 1989.

Reniers, A.J.H.M., E.B. Thornton, and T.C. Lippmann, Longshore currents over barred beaches, Coastal Dynamics '95,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 413-424, 1995.

Sallenger, A.H., Jr., Mean cross-shore flows in a high-energy surf zone, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21A-03], 68 (44), pp. 1307, 1987.

Shay, L.K., S.J. Lentz, H.C. Graber, and B.K. Haus, Current structure variations detected by high-frequency radar and vector-measuring current meters, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 15 (1), 237-256, 1998.

Smith, J.M., M. Larson, and N.C. Kraus, Longshore current on a barred beach: Field measurements and calculation, Journal of Geophysical Research, 98 (C12), 22,717-22,731, 1993.

Smith, J.M., I.A. Svendsen, and U. Putrevu, Vertical structure of the nearshore current at DELILAH: measured and modeled, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 2825-2838, 1992.

Soares, C.M., Vertical profiles of longshore currents, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 81 p., 1995.

Whitford, D.J., Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents across a barred beach, Ph.D. thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 223 p., 1988.

Whitford, D.J., and E.B. Thornton, Bed shear stress coefficients for longshore currents over a barred profile, Coastal Engineering, 27 (3-4), 243-262, 1996.

REMOTE SENSING

Dugan, J.P., H.H. Suzukawa, C.P. Forsyth, and M.S. Farber, Ocean wave dispersion surface measured with airborne IR imaging system, IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing, 34 (5), 1282-1284, 1996.

Estep, L., L. Hsu, and R. Arnone, Coastal Hydrographics Techniques: Data Report for Support of the Airborne Bathymetry System at CERF (Coastal Engineering Research Center) FRF (Field Research Facility) Duck, North Carolina, Technical Report NORDA-SP-004:352:89, Naval Ocean Research and Development Activity, NSTL Station, 173 p., 1988.

Holman, R.A., and T.C. Lippmann, Remote sensing of nearshore bar systems; making morphology visible, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 929-944, 1987.

Keller, W.C., W.J. Plant, and J.W. Johnson, Microwave measurement of sea surface velocities from pier and aircraft, Oceans '82, Washington, D. C.,,, pp. 909-913, 1982.

Legarsky, J.J., and R.K. Moore, Test of the Vector Slope Gauge at Duck, North Carolina, 1995, Technical Report RSL-TR-10530-1, Kansas University, 33 p., 1996.

Lichy, D.E., Directional wave data during ARSLOE using side looking airborne radar, Oceans '82, Washington, DC,,, pp. 907-908, 1982.

Lichy, D.E., and M.G. Mattie, A ground truth site for testing remote sensing techniques to study coastal and marine phenomena., Proceedings of the 6th Annual Conference of the Remote Sensing Society,, The Remote Sensing Society, pp. 95-104, 1980.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Quantification of sand bar morphology: A video technique based on wave dissipation, Journal of Geophysical Research, 94 (C1), 995-1011, 1989.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Wave Dissipation on a Barred Beach: A Method for Determining Sand Bar Morphology,  CERC-CR-89-1, Oregon State University, 58 p., 1989.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology, Journal of Geophysical Research, 95 (C7), 11,575-11,590, 1990.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Phase speed and angle of breaking waves measured with video techniques, Coastal Sediments '91,, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 1, pp. 542-556, 1991.

McKim, H.L., C.J. Merry, and R.W. Layman, Water quality monitoring using an airborne spectroradiometer, Photogrammetric Engineering and Remote Sensing, 50 (3), 353-360, 1984.

Perlin, M., Statistical Analysis of Visual Wave Observations and Gage/Radar Measurements, miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-84-6, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 53 p., 1984.

Shay, L.K., S.J. Lentz, H.C. Graber, and B.K. Haus, Current structure variations detected by high-frequency radar and vector-measuring current meters, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 15 (1), 237-256, 1998.

Trizna, D.B., Preliminary results of dual polarized radar sea scatter, Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai, Japan,,, pp. 297-302, 1985.

SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION AND CHARACTERIZATION

Battisto, G.M., C.T. Friedrichs, H.C. Miller, and D.T. Resio, Response of OBS to Mixed Grain-Size Suspensions during Sandyduck '97, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, New York, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 1, pp. 297-312, 1999.

Beavers, R.L., P.A. Howd, and K.K. Hathaway, Hydrodynamic interpretation of shallow shoreface stratigraphy from Duck, NC, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 29 (1), pp. 30, 1997.

Byrnes, M.R., Superduck Beach Sediment Sampling Experiment. Report 1. Data Summary and Initial Observations, Miscellaneous Report CERC-89-18, U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 56 p., 1989.

Calliari, L.J., Cross-shore and longshore sediment size distribution on southern Currituck Spit, North Carolina; implications for beach differentiation, Journal of Coastal Research, 10 (2), 360-373, 1994.

Chang, Y.S., C. Conner, D.M. Hanes, E. Thosteson, and C.E. Vincent, Suspended sediment and bedform dynamics at Duck, NC, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12F-03], 78 (46), pp. 340, 1997.

Drake, T.G., Final Report for Field Studies of Nearshore Sedimentary Structures, Miscellaneous Report CHL-97-3, North Carolina State University, 155 p., 1997.

Hanes, D.M., Measurements of suspended particle concentration and size using multi-frequency acoustic backscatter, Fluid/Particle Interactions IV, Davos, Switzerland,,, pp., 1996.

Hanes, D.M., Y.S. Chang, C.D. Jetté, E.D. Thosteson, and C.E. Vincent, Field observations of small scale suspended sedimentation processes, Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 2344-2352, 1998.

Hanes, D.M., K.V. Marusin, and E.D. Thosteson, Concentration and size distribution of suspended sand at Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O12B-01], 76 (46), pp. 285, 1995.

Jetté, C.D., and D.M. Hanes, High resolution seabed imaging with an acoustic multiple transducer array, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS31A-14], 77 (46), pp. 421, 1996.

Kana, T.W., and L.G. Ward, Nearshore suspended sediment load during storm and post-storm conditions, Proceedings of the 17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Sydney, Australia, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1158-1174, 1981.

Kim, S.C., L.D. Wright, and B.O. Kim, The combined effects of synoptic-scale and local-scale meteorological events on bed stress and sediment transport on the inner shelf of the Middle Atlantic Bight, Continental Shelf Research, 17 (4), 407-433, 1997.

Kohanowich, D.M., T.P. Stanton, and E.B. Thornton, Acoustic sediment flux measures from Duck 94, Coastal Dynamics '95, Gdansk, Poland, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 739-748, 1995.

Lee, T.H., and D.M. Hanes, Measurement of suspended sediment in nearshore zone: an explicit solution to the acoustic backscatter inversion problem, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O32A-15], 74 (43 Suppl.), pp. 348, 1993.

Lee, T.H., and D.M. Hanes, Measurements and model comparisons of the vertical distribution of suspended sediment by waves and currents, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-05], 75 (44), pp. 335, 1994.

Lee, T.H., and D.M. Hanes, Direct inversion method to measure the concentration profile of suspended particles using backscattered sound, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C2), 2649-2657, 1995.

Lee, T.H., and D.M. Hanes, Comparison of field observations of the vertical distribution of suspended sand and its prediction by models, Journal of Geophysical Research, 101 (C2), 3561-3572, 1996.

Madsen, O.S., T.A. Chisholm, and L.D. Wright, Suspended sediment transport in inner shelf waters during extreme storms, Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Barcelona, Spain, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1849-1864, 1994.

Madsen, O.S., L.D. Wright, J.D. Boon, and T.A. Chisholm, Wind stress, bed roughness and sediment suspension on the inner shelf during an extreme storm event, Continental Shelf Research, 13 (11), 1303-1324, 1993.

Moustafa, M.S., A foreshore sediment-size population characterized by Q-mode factor analysis, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union,, 72 (17), pp. 133, 1991.

Moustafa, M.S.J., Swash induced zonation of a foreshore; sediment size distribution, Masters thesis, College of William and Mary, 139 p., 1988.

Ogston, A.S., Influence of breaking waves on sediment concentration profiles and longshore sediment flux in the nearshore zone, Ph.D. thesis, University of Washington, 123 p., 1997.

Raubenheimer, B., S. Elgar, and R.G. Guza, Wave attenuation in a sand bed, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS21A-36 POSTER], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 403, 1996.

Rice, T.M., R.L. Beavers, and S.W. Syder, Preliminary geologic framework of the inner continental shelf offshore Duck, North Carolina, USA, Journal of Coastal Research (26), 219-225, 1998.

Rosati, J.D., and N.C. Kraus, Development of a Portable Sand Trap for Use in the Nearshore, Technical Report CERC-TR-89-11, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 180 p., 1989.

Schwartz, R.K., D.W. Cooper, and P.H. Etheridge, Sedimentologic Architecture of the Shoreface Prism, Relationship to Profile Dynamics, and Relevance to Engineering Concerns: Duck, North Carolina, Technical Report CHL-97-19, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 175 p., 1997.

Smith, J.B., T.G. Drake, E.L. Gallagher, and S. Elgar, Do detailed hydrodynamic and sedimentologic data aid predication of nearshore stratigraphy? Examples from the Duck94 nearshore field experiment, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 27 (6), pp. 79, 1995.

Stanton, T.P., K. Kanhanovich, and E.B. Thornton, Acoustic Doppler measurements of sediment fluxes at Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-04], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 335, 1994.

Stauble, D.K., Long-term profile and sediment morphodynamics: Field Research Facility case history, Technical Report CERC-92-7, US Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 252 p., 1992.

Thosteson, E.D., Development and field application of a littoral processes monitoring system for examination of the relevant time scales of sediment suspension processes, Ph.D. thesis, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL, 152 p., 1997.

Thosteson, E.D., and D.M. Hanes, A simplified method for determining sediment size and concentration from multiple frequency acoustic backscatter measurements, Journal Acoustic Society of America, 104 (2), 820-830, 1998.

Trembanis, A.C., E.R. Thieler, P.A. Howd, and M. A., Analysis and interpretation of vibracores from the Duck, NC shoreface, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 29 (1), pp. 86, 1997.

SEDIMENT SUSPENSION AND TRANSPORT

Beach, R.A., Bulk characterizations of suspended sediment concentration in the surf zone, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-06], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 335, 1994.

Beach, R.A., and R.W. Sternberg, Suspended-sediment transport in the surf zone: Response to breaking waves, Continental Shelf Research, 16 (15), 1989-2003, 1996.

Bodge, K.R., and R.G. Dean, Short-term impoundment of longshore transport, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 468-483, 1987.

Calantoni, J., and T.G. Drake, Discrete-particle model for nearshore bedload transport, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#H41E-11], 79 (45 Suppl.), pp. 122, 1998.

Chang, Y.S., C. Conner, D.M. Hanes, E. Thosteson, and C.E. Vincent, Suspended sediment and bedform dynamics at Duck, NC, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12F-03], 78 (46), pp. 340, 1997.

Chisholm, T.A., O.S. Madsen, and L.D. Wright, Cross-shore mean transport of suspended sediments during an extreme storm event, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22C-11], 74 (43 Suppl.), pp. 341, 1993.

Clausner, J.E., Use of Seabed Drifters for Locating and Monitoring Dredged Material Placement Sites; Environmental Effects of Dredging, Technical Report WES/TN/EL-EEDP-01-12, 12 p., 1988.

Fields, M.L., and L.L. Weishar, Distribution of sediment tracers seaward of the breaker zone; DUCK85, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 848-864, 1987.

Friedrichs, C.T., L.D. Wright, and M. A., The critical role of the along-shelf current in determining dominant modes of sediment transport across the shoreface (inner shelf), EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22A-16], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 339-340, 1994.

Haines, J.W., P. Howd, and K. Hanson, Cross-Shore Transport and Profile Evolution at Duck, North Carolina, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, New York, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 1050-1064, 1999.

Hanes, D.M., V. Alymov, E.D. Thosteson, Y. Chang, and C.E. Vincent, Local seabed morphology and small scale sedimentation processes during SandyDuck97, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12F-02], 79 (45), pp. 444, 1998.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Field observations of beach cusps and swash motions, Marine Geology, 134 (1-2), 77-93, 1996.

Holland, K.T., A.H. Sallenger, Jr., and R.A. Holman, Swash zone sediment transport during Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-09], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 388, 1996.

Holland, K.T., A.H. Sallenger, Jr., B. Raubenheimer, and S. Elgar, Swash zone morphodynamics and sediment transport processes, Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 2799-2809, 1998.

Horn, D.P., Beach research in the 1990s, Progress In Physical Geography, 21 (3), 454-470, 1997.

Howd, P.A., W.A. Birkemeier, and R.A. Holman, Sediment transport and the quantification of profile changes, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22B-06], 66 (46), pp. 922, 1985.

Howd, P.A., and R.A. Holman, Beach foreshore response to long-period waves, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1968-1982, 1985.

Huck, M.P., Vertical and horizontal length scales of suspended sediment in the nearshore, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 54 p., 1998.

Humiston, R., and E. Thornton, Cross-shore transport during DELILAH, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union,, 73 (43 Suppl.), pp. 255, 1992.

Jaffe, B.E., R.W. Sternberg, and A.H. Sallenger, Jr., The role of suspended sediment in shore-normal beach profile changes, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1983-1996, 1985.

Kim, B.O., Modeling storm-induced sediment transport on the inner shelf; effects of bed microstratigraphy, Ph.D. thesis, College of William and Mary, 177 p., 1996.

Kim, S.C., Inner continental shelf benthic boundary layer dynamics and suspended sediment transport, Ph.D. thesis, College of William and Mary, 221 p., 1990.

Kraus, N.C., and J.L. Dean, Longshore sediment transport rate distribution measured by trap, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 881-896, 1987.

Kraus, N.C., K.J. Gingerich, and J.D. Rosati, Duck85 Surf Zone Sand Transport Experiment, Technical Report CERC-89-5, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 40 p., 1989.

Larson, M., and N.C. Kraus, Analysis of Cross-Shore Movement of Natural Longshore Bars and Material Placed to Create Longshore Bars,  DRP-92-5, US Army Corps of Engineers, 118 p., 1992.

Maa, J.P.Y., L.D. Wright, C.H. Lee, and T.W. Shannon, VIMS sea carousel; a field instrument for studying sediment transport, Marine Geology, 115 (3-4), 271-287, 1993.

Madsen, O.S., T.A. Chisholm, and L.D. Wright, Suspended sediment transport in inner shelf waters during extreme storms, Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Barcelona, Spain, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1849-1864, 1994.

Miller, H.C., Longshore suspended sediment transport measurements using the SIS; 14-16 October, 1994, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21B-01], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 292, 1995.

Miller, H.C., Comparison of storm longshore transport rates to predictions, Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 2954-2967, 1998.

Miller, H.C., Field measurements of longshore sediment transport during storms, Coastal Engineering, 36 (4), 301-321, 1999.

Miller, H.C., J.S. Smith, D.G. Hamilton, and D.T. Resio, Cross-shore transport processes during onshore bar migration, Coastal Sediments '99, Long Island, N.Y., American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 1065-1080, 1999.

Nairn, R.B., Validation of a detailed alongshore transport model, in Sand Transport in Rivers, Estuaries and the Sea, edited by R. Soulsby, and  R. Bettess, pp. 233-239, A. A. Balkema, Rotterdam, Netherlands, 1991.

Plant, N.G., and R.A. Holman, Estimates of time-averaged sediment transport rates over evolving beach cusps and mega-cusps, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21E-10], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 335-336, 1994.

Richmond, B.M., and A.H. Sallenger, Jr., Cross-shore transport of bimodal sands, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 1997-2008, 1984.

Rosati, J.D., K.J. Gingerich, and N.C. Kraus, SUPERDUCK Surf Zone Sand Transport Experiment, Technical Report CERC-90-10, U. S. Army Corps of Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 72 p., 1990.

Scott, K.A., E.B. Thornton, W. Birkemeier, A. Mono, N.C. Kraus, K.J. Gingerich, and D.L. Kriebel, Mean currents and sediment transport at DELILAH, Coastal Sediments '91,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 477-488, 1991.

Stauble, D.K., G.W. Holem, M.R. Byrnes, F.J. Anders, and E. Meisburger, SUPERDUCK Beach Sediment Sample Experiment: Beach Profile Change and Foreshore Sediment Dynamics,  CERC-93-4, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 58 p., 1993.

Thosteson, E.D., Development and field application of a littoral processes monitoring system for examination of the relevant time scales of sediment suspension processes, Ph.D. thesis, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL, 152 p., 1997.

Thosteson, E.D., and D.M. Hanes, Characterization of relevant sediment suspension time scales from acoustic concentration profiles, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS31A-13 POSTER], 77 (46), pp. 420, 1996.

Thosteson, E.D., and D.M. Hanes, The time lag between fluid forcing and wave generated sediment suspension, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS21C-38], 79 (45), pp. 453, 1998.

Turner, I.L., Field experiments with beach groundwater and implications for sediment transport, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O21B-12], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 294, 1995.

Turner, I.L., and G. Masselink, Swash infiltration-exfiltration and sediment transport, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (13), 30,813-30,824, 1998.

Voulgaris, G., D. Simmonds, D. Michel, H. Howa, M.B. Collins, and D.A. Huntley, Measuring and modelling sediment transport on a macrotidal ridge and runnel beach: An intercomparison, Journal of Coastal Research, 14 (1), 315-330, 1998.

Wang, P., N.C. Kraus, and R.A. Davis, Total longshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone: Field measurements and empirical predictions, Journal of Coastal Research, 14 (1), 269-282, 1998.

Weishar, L.L., M.L. Fields, L.A. Meadows, and G.A. Meadows, Sediment resuspension outside the surf zone during SUPERDUCK, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O31A-35], 68 (44), pp. 1312, 1987.

Weishar, L.L., and G.A. Meadows, Suspended sediment concentrations outside the surf zone, DUCK85, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 897-912, 1987.

Wright, L.D., J.D. Boon, S.C. Kim, and J.H. List, Modes of cross-shore sediment transport on the shoreface of the Middle Atlantic Bight, Marine Geology, 96 (1-2), 19-51, 1991.

Wright, L.D., C.T. Friedrichs, and T.A. Chisholm, The lower shoreface of the Middle Atlantic Bight; a pathway for nearshore-shelf sediment exchange, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O22A-17 POSTER], 75 (44 Suppl.), pp. 340, 1994.

Wright, L.D., O.S. Madsen, T.A. Chisholm, and J.P. Xu, Inner continental shelf transport processes: the Middle Atlantic Bight, Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Barcelona, Spain, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 867-878, 1994.

Wright, L.D., J.P. Xu, and O.S. Madsen, Across-shelf benthic transports on the inner shelf of the Middle Atlantic Bight during the Halloween storm of 1991, Marine Geology, 118 (1-2), 61-77, 1994.

Xu, J., Suspended sediment concentration profiles in the bottom boundary layer, Ph.D. thesis, College of William and Mary, 131 p., 1993.

Yu, Y., R.W. Sternberg, and R.A. Beach, Kinematics of breaking waves and associated suspended sediment in the nearshore zone, Continental Shelf Research, 13 (11), 1219-1242, 1993.

SHEAR WAVES

Bowen, A.J., and R.A. Holman, Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current, 1. Theory, Journal of Geophysical Research, 94 (C12), 18,023-18,030, 1989.

Dodd, N., On the destabilization of a longshore current on a plane beach: bottom shear-stress, critical conditions, and onset of instability, Journal of Geophysical Research, 99 (C1), 811-824, 1994.

Dodd, N., J. Oltman-Shay, and E.B. Thornton, Shear instabilities in the longshore current: A comparison of observation and theory, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 22 (1), 62-82, 1992.

Dodd, N., and E.B. Thornton, Growth and energetics of shear waves in the nearshore, Journal of Geophysical Research, 95 (C9), 16,075-16,083, 1990.

Falaques, A., and V. Iranzo, Numerical simulation of vorticity waves in the nearshore, Journal of Geophysical Research, 99 (C1), 825-841, 1994.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Wavenumber-frequency structure of infragravity swash motions, Journal of Geophysical Research, 104 (C6), 13479-13488, 1999.

Howd, P.A., A.J. Bowen, and R.A. Holman, Edge waves in the presence of strong longshore currents, Journal of Geophysical Research, 97 (C7), 11,357-11,371, 1992.

Howd, P.A., J. Oltman-Shay, and R.A. Holman, Wave variance partitioning in the trough of a barred beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 96 (C7), 12,781-12,795, 1991.

Lippmann, T.C., T.H.C. Herbers, and E.B. Thornton, Gravity and shear wave contributions to nearshore infragravity motions, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 29 (2), 231-239, 1999.

Noyes, T.J., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and T.H. Herbers, Observations of shear waves in the surf zone, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS71D-03], 79 (45 Suppl.), pp. 400, 1998.

Oltman-Shay, J., P.A. Howd, and W.A. Birkemeier, Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current: 2. field observations, Journal of Geophysical Research, 94 (C12), 18,031-18,042, 1989.

Özkan-Haller, H.T., and J.T. Kirby, Shear instabilities of longshore currents: flow characteristics and momentum mixing during Superduck, Structures Congress XV, Portland, Oregon, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 466-475, 1997.

Özkan-Haller, H.T., and J.T. Kirby, Nonlinear evolution of shear instabilities of the longshore current: A comparison of observations and computations, Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 104 (C11), 25953-25984, 1999.

SWASH/RUNUP

Douglass, S.L., Estimation extreme values of run-up on beaches, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 118 (2), 220-224, 1992.

Holland, K.T., Foreshore dynamics: Swash motions and topographic interactions on natural beaches, Ph.D. thesis, Oregon State University, Corvallis, 119 p., 1995.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, The statistical distribution of swash maxima on natural beaches, Journal of Geophysical Research, 98 (C6), 10,271-10,278, 1993.

Holland, K.T., and R.A. Holman, Wavenumber-frequency structure of infragravity swash motions, Journal of Geophysical Research, 104 (C6), 13479-13488, 1999.

Holman, R.A., and A.H. Sallenger, Jr., Longshore variability of wave run-up on natural beaches, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1896-1912, 1984.

Horn, D.P., Beach research in the 1990s, Progress In Physical Geography, 21 (3), 454-470, 1997.

Howd, P.A., and R.A. Holman, Beach foreshore response to long-period waves, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1968-1982, 1985.

Moustafa, M.S.J., Swash induced zonation of a foreshore; sediment size distribution, Masters thesis, College of William and Mary, 139 p., 1988.

Overton, M.F., J.S. Fisher, and T. Fenaish, Numerical analysis of swash forces on dunes, Coastal Sediments '87,, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 632-641, 1987.

Plant, N.G., and R.A. Holman, Intertidal beach profile estimation using video images, Marine Geology, 140 (1-2), 1-24, 1997.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Waves in the surf and swash zones, Ph.D. thesis, University of California at San Diego, San Diego, CA, 101 p., 1996.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, S. Elgar, and N. Kobayashi, Swash on a gently sloping beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C5), 8751-8760, 1995.

Resio, D.T., Extreme Runup Statistics on Natural Beaches, Miscellaneous Report CERCMP-87-11, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 31 p., 1987.

Turner, I.L., and G. Masselink, Swash infiltration-exfiltration and sediment transport, Journal of Geophysical Research, 103 (13), 30,813-30,824, 1998.

Werner, B., T. Burnet, and S. Elgar, Swash flow patterns coincident with beach cusp formation, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS31A-12 POSTER], 77, pp. 420, 1996.

TIDES

Burnet, T.K., B.T. Werner, and S. Elgar, Effect of tides on beach cusp formation, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS11B-01], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 387, 1996.

Gaffney, D.A., and G.L. Williams, Joint probability of superelevated water levels and wave heights at Duck, North Carolina, Second International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, New Orleans, Louisiana, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 905-917, 1993.

Okihiro, M., and R.T. Guza, Infragravity energy modulation by tides, Journal of Geophysical Research, 100 (C8), 16,143-16,148, 1995.

Sato, M., K. Kuroki, and T. Shinohara, A field experiment on the formation of beach cusps, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 2, pp. 2205-2218, 1992.

Thornton, E.B., and C.S. Kim, Longshore current and wave height modulation at tidal frequency inside the surf zone, Journal of Geophysical Research, 98 (C9), 16,509-16,519, 1993.

WAVE BREAKING AND SETUP

Chen, Y., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Modeling breaking surface waves in shallow water, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS12B-03], 77, pp. 393, 1996.

Chen, Y.Z., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water, Journal of Geophysical Research, 102 (C11), 25035-25046, 1997.

Church, J.C., and E.B. Thornton, Bottom stress modification by breaking waves within a longshore current model, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 3, pp. 3012-3025, 1992.

Church, J.C., and E.B. Thornton, Effects of breaking wave induced turbulence within a longshore current model, Coastal Engineering, 20 (1-2), 1-28, 1993.

Herbers, T.H.C., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Directional spreading of shoaling and breaking waves, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS21A-09], 77 (46 Suppl.), pp. 400, 1996.

Lentz, S., and B. Raubenheimer, Field observations of wave setup, Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 104 (C11), 25867-25875, 1999.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Phase speed and angle of breaking waves measured with video techniques, Coastal Sediments '91,, American Society of Civil Engineers, v. 1, pp. 542-556, 1991.

Lippmann, T.C., and R.A. Holman, Wave group modulations in cross-shore breaking patterns, Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 918-931, 1992.

Su, M., J.C. Wesson, and R.E. Burge, Shallow-water bubble distributions from the SandyDuck '97 experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS42D-07], pp. 189, 1999.

Su, M.Y., R.E. Burge, and J.C. Wesson, Breaking waves and bubble measurements in the SandyDuck '97 experiment, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS52A-6], pp. 49, 1998.

Wallerstein, G., and S. Elgar, Shock waves in stellar atmospheres and breaking waves on an ocean beach, Science, 256 (5063), 1531-1536, 1992.

Wu, C., K.K. Kathaway, and O.G. Nwogu, Field observations of nearshore wave set-up during the coastal storm in January 1998, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS71D-10], pp. 401, 1998.

Yu, Y., R.W. Sternberg, and R.A. Beach, Kinematics of breaking waves and associated suspended sediment in the nearshore zone, Continental Shelf Research, 13 (11), 1219-1242, 1993.

WAVE GENERATION AND TRANSFORMATION

Anonymous, Estimating nearshore conditions for irregular waves, Technical Report 80-3, Coastal Engineering Research Facility, 47 p., 1980.

Constantian, R.K., Observed kinematics of waves in the surf zone, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 53 p., 1999.

Davis, J.E., J.M. Smith, and C.L. Vincent, Parametric Description for a Wave Energy Spectrum in the Surf Zone, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-91-11, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 45 p., 1991.

Ebersole, B.A., and S.A. Hughes, DUCK85 photopole field experiment, Miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-87-18, U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Center, 162 p., 1987.

Elgar, S., R.T. Guza, B. Raubenheimer, T.H.C. Herbers, and E. Gallagher, Observations of wave evolution during Duck94, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#011A-11], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 282, 1995.

Evangelidis, D., T.H.C. Herbers, P.F. Jessen, S. Elgar, W.C. O'Reilly, and R.T. Guza, Wave propagation across the continental shelf, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O11A-08], 76, pp. 281, 1995.

Grosskopf, W.G., Calculation of Wave Attenuation due to Friction and Shoaling: An Evaluation, Technical Report CERC-TP-80-8, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 17 p., 1980.

Guza, R.T., Surface Gravity Waves and Ambient Microseismic Noise,, Scripps Inst. of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA (USA), 6 p., 1992.

Herbers, T.H.C., and R.T. Guza, Nonlinear wave interactions and high-frequency seafloor pressure, Journal of Geophysical Research, 99 (C5), 10,035-10,048, 1994.

Holland, K.T., Validation of the linear dispersion equation using field observations, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#OS21C-12], 78 (46 Suppl.), pp. 346, 1997.

Holland, K.T., Validation of the Linear Dispersion Equation Using Field Observations, Formal Report 7442--98-8084, Naval Research Laboratory, 22 p., 1998.

Hubertz, J.M., Prediction of wave refraction and shoaling using two numerical models, Technical Report v81-12, US Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 17 p., 1981.

Hubertz, J.M., Prediction of nearshore wave transformation, Technical Report, US Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 13 p., 1982.

Hughes, S.A., and H.C. Miller, Transformation of significant wave heights, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 113 (6), 588-605, 1987.

Larson, M., Model for decay of random waves in surf zone, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 121 (1), 1-12, 1995.

Lippmann, T.C., A.H. Brookins, and E.B. Thornton, Wave energy transformation on natural profiles, Coastal Engineering, 27 (1-2), 1-20, 1996.

List, J.H., Wave groupiness variations in the nearshore, Coastal Engineering, 15 (5-6), 475-496, 1991.

Liu, Z., S. Elgar, and R.T. Guza, Groups of ocean waves: Comparisons between linear theory, approximations to linear theory, and observations, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 119 (2), 144-159, 1993.

Long, C.E., Wave height distribution in multiple-peaked seas, Technical Report CERC-91-7, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 56 p., 1991.

Lui, P.L.F., Numerical prediction of wave transformation, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 111 (5), 843-855, 1985.

Mattie, M.G., Empirical Guidelines for Use of Irregular Wave Model to Estimate Nearshore Wave Height, Technical Report CERC-TP-82-1, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 20 p., 1982.

Miller, H.C., and R.E. Jensen, Comparison of Atlantic coast wave information study hindcasts with Field Research Facility gage measurements, Technical Report CERC-90-17, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 32 p., 1990.

Norheim, C.A., Stochastic model for shoaling waves, Masters thesis, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, 57 p., 1997.

Norheim, C.A., T.H.C. Herbers, and S. Elgar, A stochastic model for shoaling waves, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#PS21A-10 POSTER], 77, pp. 400, 1996.

Norheim, C.A., T.H.C. Herbers, and S. Elgar, Nonlinear evolution of surface wave spectra on a beach, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 28 (7), 1534-1551, 1998.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Wave transformation in the surf zone, EOS Transactions of American Geophysical Union, [#O11A-12], 76 (46 Suppl.), pp. 282, 1995.

Raubenheimer, B., R.T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Wave transformation across the inner surf zone, Journal of Geophysical Research, 101 (C11), 25589-25597, 1996.

Seeling, W.N., J.P. Ahrens, and W.G. Grosskopf, The elevation and duration of wave crests, Miscellaneous Report, US Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 73p. p., 1983.

Thornton, E.B., and C.S. Kim, Longshore current and wave height modulation at tidal frequency inside the surf zone, Journal of Geophysical Research, 98 (C9), 16,509-16,519, 1993.

WAVE REFLECTION

Baquerizo, A., M.A. Losada, J.M. Smith, and N. Kobayashi, Cross-shore variation of wave reflection from beaches, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 123 (5), 274-279, 1997.

Elgar, S., R.T. Guza, B. Raubenheimer, T.H.C. Herbers, and E.L. Gallagher, Spectral evolution of shoaling and breaking waves on a barred beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 102 (C7), 15797-15805, 1997.

Elgar, S., T.H.C. Herbers, and R. Guza, T., Reflection of ocean surface gravity waves from a natural beach, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 24 (7), 1503-1511, 1994.

Hubertz, J.M., Prediction of wave refraction and shoaling using two numerical models, Technical Report v81-12, US Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 17 p., 1981.

WINDS, WIND STRESS, AND WIND DRIVEN FLOWS

Anonymous, Scientists model atmospheric aerosols from the shores of Duck, North Carolina, Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, 80 (4), 710-710, 1999.

Austin, J.A., The role of the alongshore wind stress in the heat budget of the North Carolina inner shelf, Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 104 (C8), 18187-18203, 1999.

Beavers, R.L., P.A. Howd, and K.K. Hathaway, Effects of wind- and wave-driven current flows on the shoreface of Duck, NC during two fall 1994 storms, Abstracts with Programs - Geological Society of America,, 27 (6), pp. 79, 1995.

Friedrichs, C.T., and L.D. Wright, Wave effects on inner shelf wind drag coefficients, Proceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Virginia Beach, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 1033-1047, 1998.

Kim, S.C., L.D. Wright, J. Chen, and M. A., Wind driven cross-shore bottom stress over a lower shoreface, EOS Transactions American Geophysical Union, [#OS21I-11], 77 (3 Suppl.), pp. 63, 1996.

Kim, S.C., L.D. Wright, and B.O. Kim, The combined effects of synoptic-scale and local-scale meteorological events on bed stress and sediment transport on the inner shelf of the Middle Atlantic Bight, Continental Shelf Research, 17 (4), 407-433, 1997.

Long, C.E., and J.M. Hubertz, Nearshore wind-stress measurements: Background preliminary field work and experiment design, Miscellaneous Report CERC-88/14, U.S. Army Engineers Waterways Experiment Station, 115 p., 1988.

Madsen, O.S., L.D. Wright, J.D. Boon, and T.A. Chisholm, Wind stress, bed roughness and sediment suspension on the inner shelf during an extreme storm event, Continental Shelf Research, 13 (11), 1303-1324, 1993.

Raman, S., M.J. Kang, J.M. Smith, C.E. Long, and J.M. Hubertz, Superduck Marine Meteorological Experiment Data Summary: Mean Values and Turbulence Parameters, miscellaneous Report CERC-MP-88-13, North Carolina State University, 108 p., 1988.

Rennie, S.E., Wind interaction with buoyant plumes on the inner continental shelf, Ph.D. thesis, College of William and Mary, Williamsburg, VA, 178 p., 1998.

Schroeder, J.L., D.A. Smith, and R.E. Peterson, Variation of turbulence intensities and integral scales during the passage of a hurricane, Journal of Wind Engineering and Industrial Aerodynamics, 77-8, 65-72, 1998.

Xu, J.P., and L.D. Wright, Observations of wind-generated shoreface currents off Duck, North Carolina, Journal of Coastal Research, 14 (2), 610-619, 1998.